Train to Luxor

Not without some trepidation did we anticipate our ride on the day train from Giza to Luxor. A 10 hour ride is enough even to make the pristine Shinkansen weary to the most avid train enthusiast. Add to this the horror stories found online from past travellers who warned of rickety carriages, greasy accommodations, and unhelpful employees, and you have a recipe for a veritable witches brew of unhappiness, frustration, and despair.

The concoction of this foul potion was happily thwarted by lack of ingredients, though, as we were all pleasantly surprised by the smoothness of our journey's start.

Rising early in anticipation of the busy Sunday morning (first day of the Islamic week) rush hour traffic, we took an Uber to the station. Traffic was fairly light but quickly coagulated and we once again found ourselves weaving between traffic and pedestrians, in what must be a daily dance with death for so many inhabitants of this strange land.

At the station we were immediately stopped by a guard who asked for our tickets. Leary of some sort of scam we were hesitant at first but soon a helpful police officer pointed out our platform. Happy with this assistance, we set off down the track.

When cries of 'Excuse Me!', in English, were heard behind us, though they could only have been for us (the lone Westerners on the platform), we dutifully ignored them, tired of being pried for money. At the gesticulations of others along the platform we finally turned, only to see two stern police officers walking towards us. They proved to only want to help us, and indeed one turned out to be most considerate, eventually leading us to the door of our car.

We had about an hour to spare, owing to our early departure, and saw multiple other trains come and go while drinking coffee and hot chocolate at a small cafe. These were of a different category than our train, having no AC and a more battered appearance, including locomotives with bars over the windshields. Passengers from these trains who found themselves exiting onto the wrong platform simply opened the opposite doors facing the tracks and walked across, clambering up the other side.

Once our train arrived, we were quickly ushered aboard by the helpful police officer, and settled down for the quick 10 hour (God willing) ride to Luxor. Seats were two and two across, with Tut 2 and Mummy occupying the two right seats, and Tut 1 (The Author) seated across the aisle next to an Egyptian. The train was similar to its modern (as opposed to wild) Western counterparts, though the toilets flushed directly onto the tracks, and as such passengers are discouraged to discharge their contents while sitting at stations.

As the train ride began, we passed much scenery similar to that of the previous day. Indeed, the landscape would not change substantially over our 900 kilometer journey, as we would hug the Nile the whole time. We had our tickets checked without any problems, and were surprised not to have to show our passports. These tickets were purchased online, as people say that tourists cannot purchase tickets for the day train in person at the station, but are forced to purchase the significantly more expensive night train tickets instead. These tickets cost $100 per person, and though that figure includes a meal and bed, we felt the grand total of $20 we spent for the day train was too good of a deal to miss.

At about the halfway point on our ride we stopped at a city called Asyut, where a number of pregnant women came aboard asking for alms. We were instantly swarmed, and The Author made the terrible mistake of letting a 50 pound note be seen as he fished a more reasonable 5 pounder from his pocket. One woman departed with the latter, while the other stood by my seat entreating me for the former. Now 50 pounds is really not much money for an American (about 3 dollars), but for a poor Egyptian is a considerable sum, and far above what a mendicant would normally get. The woman would not leave, and The Author finally procured a more reasonable amount from Tut 2 and mummy from across the aisle.

Later on two small boys came by with the same object, and I warned Mummy to keep an eye on the things on her tray table when I saw one snatch some peanuts from the table of a sleeping man in front of me. They inevitably stopped by us, and both went away happy with a 1 pound coin, and later sticks of gum on their return.

In addition to the regular food service, conducted by uniformed train personnel leading a cart ladened with sandwiches, at stops men would board and walk up and down the aisles toting goods. Some carried only a large tin pot and paper cups, while others carried snacks and the like. Some would simply deposit their goods on the lap or tray tables of random people along the carriage, apparently leaving them. Later, they would return, and take the items if untouched, and demand payment if otherwise (The Author never actually witnessed this, but doubts the items were complimentary). Fortunately I witnessed a local in front of my seat simply ignore his parcel until it was later picked back up before one was dropped on me (As in ignorance The Author would not have known what to expect on the seller's return, and probably would end up making a fool of Himself).

Many an hour passed, and aided by the GPS on our phone's, without which we would have been hard pressed to determine which station each stop was, we saw ourselves draw near our destination.

While waiting to leave the train, some un-uniformed men asked for our tickets, and we simply ignored them, as they may be part of the scam in which intelligence gleaned from the tickets prepares an accomplice to lie in wait with a sign beckoning us by name to their taxi.

At the station our troubles were not over, for we had to pass through a gauntlet of cab drivers and hotel managers while leaving the station. Some were extremely persistent, and followed us a ways emphasizing the economy of their hotel or cab fare.

We stopped to eat at a McDonald's, and were all much happy with a change in cuisine.
Leaving, we headed to the ferry to take us across the Nile to our Airbnb, and on the way passed Luxor Temple, which The Author will not expound on this post, as its length is already great, and only the most intrepid or devoted reader will likely get this far.

Once more we were accosted by peddlers offering horse and boat rides, but passed them all straight to the ferry, which we soon found ourselves in crossing over to the opposite bank, where without too much effort found our humble dwelling for the next few days here.

-Nathaniel

At the station

Off to Luxor!

When we were not going through cities, the landscape was filled with farmland speckled with trees. In the distance you can see the mountains which border the ancient floodplains. Beyond these rugged cliffs, which surrounded us for the entire trip after leaving Giza, is the barren desert.

Crossing the Nile

 

In the Luxor train station. Somewhere off to the side is a man lurking who followed us from the platform trying to sell us hotels and a taxi.

Traditional Egyptian McDonalds

Passing the Luxor Temple on the way to the ferry

Pylons and obelisk of the Luxor temple

Three Stellas on the balcony of our apartment to finish off the day