This trip had the potential to be exceptionally interesting, as based on stories we had seen online we expected to be interrogated by the Israeli's on the purpose of our visit, a process that some said could take several hours. We were especially concerned as our first Airbnb is in Bethlehem, which is in the West Bank, and currently controlled by the Palestinian Authority. This area was once governed by Jordan, but given up after Israel's successes in the Six Day War of 1967. Since then, Israel has occupied the area, a state of affairs that has engendered much enmity from the Palestinians living there. Dubious online sources suggested that our stay there would raise warning flags at the border crossing, a dour prospect to our party.
Getting to the border crossing from our abode proved interesting in itself, as we opted for an Uber, which is cheap and easy, and also illegal in Jordan. We risked nothing severe ourselves, as when one of these criminal conveyances is apprehended the passengers simply have to disembark early, while the driver alone is faced with a hefty fine. On entering our ride, the driver, who spoke little English, showed us a sign with the name of his 'company,' as well as a corresponding name tag. It was not obvious what exactly we were to do with this information in case of a police stop, but fortunately such an opportunity did not present itself, and we were deposited without incident at the Jordanian side of the border.
Here we were initially met with some confusion, a fire kindled by a random man who wanted four dinars for a service we could not fathom, and fueled by inadequate signage for us travellers. Nevertheless, we soon found ourselves in the relevant building, and after waiting some time at an empty window the proper employee showed himself, and sent us on our way.
Our exit documents finalized, we settled into the bus that conducts people across the border, where we waited about 45 minutes for it to fill up and depart. While crossing the bridge the bus stopped several times, during which our various documents (and the bottom of the bus, with the aid of mirrors) were checked for issues.
At the Israeli side, we waited through a long line for a TSA like experience, where both bags and personages were subjected to various types of radiation, after which the dreaded interrogation loomed before us. This proved anticlimactic, and after a few minutes of cursory questions, our friendly interlocutor beckoned us through the final door, into the welcoming sunshine of Israel.
From the border we took a shared taxi into Jerusalem, where we indulged ourselves with a somewhat pricey lunch atop a nearby hotel, before taking a bus into Bethlehem. During this ride, armed Israeli soldiers entered the bus and checked everyone's documents, an occurrence that also happened during the previous taxi ride.
Deposited at our appointed stop, we soon found our Airbnb with the help of our host, who met us at the stop, a fortunate occurrence as we would otherwise have spent the remainder of the day meandering through the winding streets of that little town.
-Nathaniel
Jordanian side of the border seen from our illegal Uber
The Israeli side of the border
Lunch overlooking Jerusalem
Shalom Aleikhem!
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